They are often photos attached with highly detailed drawings or labels of the. Accel super coil ignition coil how to wire up accel super coil ignition coil. Rule 1 start from the beginning and come to find out that my unfused power supply the dizzy had has a bad connection it ll have power till the engine vibrates and loosens the connection.
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Accel coil wiring diagram 11 nov 10 59 Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. You may also like Wiring Diagram 12v Photocell Wiring Diagram. That's about it for distributor setup.
You're ready to rock and roll. Now all you have to do is install it correctly and plug everything in correctly. Here's a few tips: Number 1 plug wire should be at the front of the distributor just to the driver's side of centerline. If that's not your 1 plug wire then you have the distributor installed off by a few teeth. It won't hurt performance if timing is still set correctly but plug wire routing gets a bit messy. The vacuum advance canister should be plugged into a "manifold" vacuum source on the carb or intake manifold.
This is a vacuum port on the carb that provides full manifold vacuum at curb idle. You note that the centrifugal advance curve that I recommended above starts at about RPM.
A final word about that "module:" Lotsa mystery around this little "thingamajig. I always recommend a good stock GM module, not a parts store cheapie. But get a good GM one. Stock modules incorporate what they call a "variable dwell" circuit that reduces dwell at lower RPM to keep the coil from over saturating.
This is good for sharp performance and long coil life. Some parts store modules don't have this circuitry in them. Once more the setup for 35 degrees of mechanical advance:. Too much!
With the stock vacuum advance is when you start getting the "3 rocks in a coffee can" kinda detonation. Some vacuum adv. Also, Its REAL important to make sure your centrifugal advance is not worn out because when the weights wear themselves "oval" and the pivot pins wear out you end up getting MORE total centrifugal advance. Like up to 26 degrees if its really shot.
In that case you end up with a really over advanced timing 66 degrees if plugged into our previous example- OUCH! You won't need a dial back timing light to use it they're expensive for a really good one and you won't have to start "guessing" once the timing mark on the balancer starts "crawling up behind the water pump", off the top of the range of stock timing marks.
Really useful little piece of equipment. Make sure you get the right one for your balancer- 6", 7", 8", whatever your particular small block happened to come with. After reading the above article, I decided to try this.
After getting the kit, and installing it, I had to experiment to get it right. I couldn't figure out which way to turn the adjustment screw, the one that Damon said to turn 9 turns. Also the lockout plate that comes in the kit, the instructions are pretty vague on how to install it.
So after messing with it for about an hour, I finally figured it out. The instructions below will explain it better. When installing the Crane adjustable can turn the adjustment all the way clockwise and then back it out about 9 turns counterclockwise.
When you install the advance lockout, the instructions are not real clear on the orientation. The best way I can describe it is, it goes under the pickup coil arm for a better word , the part of the pickup coil with the hole in it that the vacuum can rod goes in, which means it is laying on the can mounting plate. Once you have the lockout in place, the hole in the lockout, which is offset to one side, will be toward the back of the distributor and the notches will be towards the inside.
I know the instructions say mount it with notches facing the outside, this would be the same as what I have stated, but with no advance locked out.
If you have the maximum amount locked out, the straight side of the lockout will be parallel with the mounting plate of the vacuum can. After the lockout is in place it should be in the same position as the picture above.
As you can tell from the photo, the lockout has 9 notches. The maximum is at the bottom left hand corner, and the minimum is at the top right hand corner. With my setup, I have it installed at the seventh notch arrow in photo. This equals 16 degrees of total vacuum advance. If you look at the photo above you can clearly see the difference from min. If you need to lower the amount of advance you have locked out, loosen the screw that holds it in place and spin it towards the outside of the distributor, or to the left.
You will need to pull back on the vacuum advance canister rod as you do this. As Damon said, about 2 notches less than maximum is what you need for 16 degrees of available advance.
I hope this is clear. One more thing, as the instruction sheet says, for every 1 notch 2 degrees you move the lockout, you increase your initial timing by the same amount. Well, when you add the advance lockout and limit the amount of vacuum advance you are rotating the pickup coil 2 degrees counterclockwise for every notch 2 degrees you move the lockout, which increases the timing. You will find that by the time you are through, your distributor will be turned clockwise around toward the passenger side a fair amount from where it was at initially.
Don't panic, this is normal. The vacuum advance canister rod, the part that actually does the pulling, is attached to the pickup coil in the distributor. When vacuum is applied to the canister it pulls the rod, and this pulls on the pickup coil.
The pickup coil rotates counterclockwise and in effect advances the timing by the amount of rotation. What the Crane unit does is adjust the amount of vacuum and limit the total amount. When you install the lockout, it limits the effective total amount of vacuum advance. It limits how much you have to start with. You are shortening the distance that the vacuum rod has to pull on the pickup coil, shorten the total distance the rod can pull and you decrease the total advance.
This is why you spin the lockout clockwise to raise the total vacuum advance, you are increasing the amount the rod can pull. The adjustment you make to the spring in the hose nipple on the can adjusts when the vacuum starts. The farther out counterclockwise you turn it the later it starts vacuum advance. If it is adjusted all the way in clockwise it is actually about the same as a regular non-adjustable can. I don't really know how much each turn limits though.
I just thought I would add this to what Damon has already said. He knows more about this than I do, but I wanted to explain what I found out so you wouldn't have to. I hope this clears it up for you.
Damon recommended using one Blue heavy spring and one Silver medium spring for the mechanical advance. This will allow the advance to start at about rpm and be fully in at about rpm. I decided to use both Blue springs instead. Both blue springs start advance at about rpm and is full in at about rpm. Don't ask me why, I just felt this was better for my truck. I don't think Damon has ever worked on pickups much, as far as performance goes.
The earlier advance would probably work great on Camaros and other lighter cars, I just think that by trucks being heavier the later advance is better.
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