When tools are used with care and stored properly, they will last a very long time. Even with the best of care, tools will wear out if used frequently. When a tool is damaged or worn out, replace it; subsequent jobs will be safer and more enjoyable if you do. Not to be overlooked when discussing tools is the workshop. If anything more than routine maintenance is to be carried out, some sort of suitable work area is essential.
It is understood, and appreciated, that many home mechanics do not have a good workshop or garage available and end up removing an engine or doing major repairs outside it is recommended, however, that the overhaul or repair be completed under the cover of a roof.
A clean, flat workbench or table of comfortable working height is an absolute necessity. The workbench should be equipped with a vise that has a jaw opening of at least four inches. As mentioned previously, some clean, dry storage space is also required for tools, as well as the lubricants, fluids, cleaning solvents, etc. Sometimes waste oil and fluids, drained from the engine or cooling system during normal maintenance or repairs, present a disposal problem. To avoid pouring them on the ground or into a sewage system, simply pour the used fluids into large containers, seal them with caps and take them to an authorized disposal site or service station.
Plastic jugs are ideal for this purpose. Always keep a supply of old newspapers and clean rags available. Old towels are excellent for mopping up spills. Many mechanics use rolls of paper towels for most work because they are readily available and disposable. To help keep the area under the motorcycle clean, a large cardboard box can be cut open and flattened to protect the garage or shop floor. Whenever working over a painted surface such as the fuel tank cover it with an old blanket or bedspread to protect the finish.
Professional mechanics are trained in safe working procedures. However enthusiastic you may be about getting on with the job at hand, take the time to ensure that your safety is not put at risk. A moment's lack of attention can result in an accident, as can failure to observe simple precautions.
There will always be new ways of having accidents, and the following is not a comprehensive list of all dangers; it is intended rather to make you aware of the risks and to encourage a safe approach to all work you carry out on your bike. DON'T start the engine without first ascertaining that the transmission is in neutral. DON'T suddenly remove the filler cap from a hot cooling system - cover it with a cloth and release the pressure gradually first, or you may get scalded by escaping coolant.
DON'T attempt to drain oil until you are sure it has cooled sufficiently to avoid scalding you. DON'T grasp any part of the engine or exhaust system without first ascertaining that it is cool enough not to burn you.
DON'T allow brake fluid or antifreeze to contact the machine's paint work or plastic components. DON'T siphon toxic liquids such as fuel, hydraulic fluid or antifreeze by mouth, or allow them to remain on your skin. DON'T inhale dust - it may be injurious to health see Asbestos heading.
DON'T allow any spilled oil or grease to remain on the floor - wipe it up right away, before someone slips on it. DON'T attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. DON'T inflate a tire to a pressure above the recommended maximum. Apart from over stressing the carcase and wheel rim, in extreme cases the tire may blow off forcibly.
DO ensure that the machine is supported securely at all times. This is especially important when the machine is blocked up to aid wheel or fork removal. DO take care when attempting to loosen a stubborn nut or bolt. It is generally better to pull on a wrench, rather than push, so that if you slip, you fall away from the machine rather than onto it. DO wear eye protection when using power tools such as drill, sander, bench grinder etc.
DO use a barrier cream on your hands prior to undertaking dirty jobs -'it will protect your skin from infection as well as making the dirt easier to remove afterwards; but make sure your hands aren't left slippery. Note that long-term contact with used engine oil can be a health hazard.
DO keep loose clothing cuffs, ties etc. DO remove rings, wristwatch etc. DO keep your work area tidy - it is only too easy to fall over articles left lying around. DO exercise caution when compressing springs for removal or installation. Ensure that the tension is applied and released in a controlled manner, using suitable tools which preclude the possibility of the spring escaping violently.
DO ensure that any lifting tackle used has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. DO get someone to check periodically that all is well, when working alone on the vehicle. DO carry out work in a logical sequence and check that everything is correctly assembled and tightened afterwards. DO remember that your vehicle's safety affects that of yourself and others.
If in doubt on any point, get professional advice. IF, in spite of following these precautions, you are unfortunate enough to injure yourself, seek medical attention as soon as possible.
Certain friction, insulating, sealing and other products - such as brake pads, clutch linings, gaskets, etc. Extreme care must be taken to avoid inhalation of dust from such products since it is hazardous to health. If in doubt, assume that they do contain asbestos. Never smoke or have any kind of naked flame around, when working on the vehicle.
But the risk does not end there - a spark caused by an electrical short-circuit, by two metal surfaces contacting each other, by careless use of tools, or even by static electricity built up in your body under certain conditions, can ignite gasoline petrol vapor, which in a confined space is highly explosive. Never use gasoline petrol as a cleaning solvent. Use an approved safety solvent. Always disconnect the battery ground earth terminal before working on any part of the fuel or electrical system, and never risk spilling fuel on to a hot engine or exhaust.
It is recommended that a fire extinguisher of a type suitable for fuel and electrical fires is kept handy in the garage or workplace at all times. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with water. Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause unconsciousness and even death if inhaled to any extent.
Any draining or pouring of such volatile fluids should be done in a well ventilated area. When using cleaning fluids and solvents, read the instructions carefully.
Never use materials from unmarked containers - they may give off poisonous vapors. Never run the engine of a motor vehicle in an enclosed space such as a garage. Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous; if you need to run the engine, always do so in the open air or at least have the rear of the vehicle outside the workplace.
Never cause a spark, or allow a naked light near the vehicle's battery. It will normally be giving off a certain amount of hydrogen gas, which is highly explosive. Always disconnect the battery ground earth terminal before working on the fuel or electrical systems except where noted. If possible, loosen the filler plugs or cover when charging the battery from an external source.
Do not charge at an excessive rate or the battery may burst. Take care when topping up, cleaning or carrying the battery. The acid electrolyte, even when diluted, is very corrosive and should not be allowed to contact the eyes or skin.
Always wear rubber gloves and goggles or a face shield. If you ever need to prepare electrolyte yourself, always add the acid slowly to the water; never add the water to the acid. When using an electric power tool, inspection light etc. Do not use such appliances in damp conditions and, again, beware of creating a spark or applying excessive heat in the vicinity of fuel or fuel vapor.
Also ensure that the appliances meet national safety standards. A severe electric shock can result from touching certain parts of the electrical" system, such as the spark plug wires HT leads , when the engine is running or being cranked, particularly if components are damp or the insulation is defective. Where an electronic ignition system is used, the secondary HT voltage is much higher and could prove fatal.
A number of chemicals and lubricants are available for use in motorcycle maintenance and repair. They include a wide variety of products ranging from cleaning solvents and degreasers to lubricants and protective sprays for rubber, plastic and vinyl.
It is oil free and leaves no residue. It can also be used to remove gum and varnish from carburetor jets and other orifices. Brake system cleaner is used to remove grease or brake fluid from brake system components where clean surfaces are absolutely necessary and petroleum-based solvents cannot be used ; it also leaves no residue. Silicone-based lubricants are used to protect rubber parts such as hoses and grommets, and are used as lubricants for hinges and locks.
Multi-purpose grease is an all purpose lubricant used wherever grease is more practical than a liquid lubricant such as oil. Some multipurpose grease is colored white and specially formulated to be more resistant to water than ordinary grease.
Gear oil sometimes called gear lube is a specially designed oil used in transmissions and final drive units, a s well as other areas where high friction, high temperature lubrication is required. It is available in a number of viscosities weights for various applications.
Motor oil, of course, is the lubricant specially formulated for use in the engine. It normally contains a wide variety of additives to prevent corrosion and reduce foaming and wear. Motor oil comes in various weights viscosity ratings of from 5 to The recommended weight of the oil depends on the seasonal temperature and the demands on the engine. Light oil is used in cold climates and under light load conditions; heavy oil is used in hot climates and where high loads are encountered.
Multi-viscosity oils are designed to have Characteristics of both light and heavy oils and are available in a number of weights from 5W to 20W Gas petrol additives perform several functions, depending on their chemical makeup. They usually contain solvents that help dissolve gum and varnish that build up on carburetor and intake parts. They also serve to break down carbon deposits that form on the inside surfaces of the combustion chambers.
Some additives contain upper cylinder lubricants for valves and piston rings. Brake fluid is a specially formulated hydraulic fluid that can withstand the heat and pressure encountered in brake systems.
Care must be taken that this fluid does not come in contact with painted surfaces or plastics. An opened container should always be resealed to prevent contamination by water or dirt. Chain lubricants are formulated especially for use on motorcycle final drive chains.
A good chain lube should adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to be effective as a lubricant inside the chain and on the side plates, pins and rollers.
Most chain lubes are either the foaming type or quick drying type and are usually marketed as sprays. Degreasers are heavy duty solvents used to remove grease and grime that may accumulate on engine and frame components. They can be sprayed or brushed on and, depending on the type, are rinsed with either water or solvent.
Solvents are used alone or in combination with degreasers to clean parts and assemblies during repair and overhaul. The home mechanic should use only solvents that are non-flammable and that do not produce irritating fumes. Gasket sealing compounds may be used in conjunction with gaskets, to improve their sealing capabilities, or alone, to seal metal- to-metal joints. Many gasket sealers can withstand extreme heat, some are impervious to gasoline and lubricants, while others are capable of filling and sealing large cavities.
Depending on the intended use, gasket sealers either dry hard or stay relatively soft and pliable. They are usually applied by hand, with a brush, or are sprayed on the gasket sealing surfaces. Thread cement is an adhesive locking compound that prevents threaded fasteners from loosening because of vibration. It is available in a variety of types for different applications.
Moisture dispersants are usually sprays that can be used to dry out electrical components such as the fuse block and wiring connectors.
Some types can also be used as treatment for rubber and as a lubricant for hinges, cables and locks. Waxes and polishes are used to help protect painted and plated surfaces from the weather. Different types of paint may require the use of different types of wax polish.
Some polishes utilize a chemical or abrasive cleaner to help remove the top layer of oxidized dull paint on older-vehicles. In recent years, many non-wax polishes that contain a wide variety of chemicals such as polymers and silicones have been introduced.
These non-wax polishes are usually easier to apply and last longer than conventional waxes and polishes. Check fuse block Chapter 8. Check and recharge battery Chapter 8. Make sure the wiring to the starter is secure. Test starter relay Chapter 8. If the relay is good, then the fault is in the wiring or motor. Check it according to the procedure in. The contacts could be wet, corroded or dirty. Disassemble and clean the switch Chapter 8. Check all wiring connections and harnesses to make sure that they are dry, tight and not corroded.
Also check for broken or frayed wires that can cause a short to ground see wiring diagram, Chapter 8. Check the switch according to the procedure in Chapter 8. Replace the switch with a new one if it is defective. Check for wet, dirty or corroded contacts. Clean or replace the switch as necessary Chapter 8. Inspect and repair or replace. Inspect and replace the damaged parts Chapter 2.
Seized engine caused by one or more internally damaged components. Failure due to wear, abuse or lack of lubrication. Damage can include seized valves, valve lifters, camshaft, pistons, crankshaft, connecting rod bearings, or transmission gears or bearings. Refer to Chapter 2 for engine disassembly. Usually caused by dirt or water.
Remove it and clean the cap vent hole. Replace the filter Chapter 1. Test it according to the procedures in Chapter 8. Pull the fuel line loose and carefully blow through it. For both of the valves to be clogged, either a very bad batch of fuel with an unusual additive has been used, or some other foreign material has entered the tank.
Many times after a machine has been stored for many months without running, the fuel turns to a varnish-like liquid and forms deposits on the inlet needle valves and jets. The carburetors should be removed and overhauled if draining the float chambers doesn't solve the problem. Check and adjust as described in Chapter 3. A piece of dirt, rust or other debris can cause the inlet needle to seat improperly, causing excess fuel to be admitted to the float bowl.
In this case, the float chamber. If the needle and seat are worn, then the leaking will persist and the parts should be replaced with new ones Chapter 3. Under normal circumstances i. When the engine is cold, the choke should be operated and the engine started without opening the throttle. When the engine is at operating temperature, only a very slight amount of throttle should be necessary.
If the engine is flooded, turn the fuel tap off and hold the throttle open while cranking the engine. This will allow additional air to reach the cylinders. Remember to turn the fuel tap back on after the engine starts. Check and recharge battery as necessary. Locate reason for fouled plug s using spark plug condition chart and follow the plug maintenance procedures in Chapter 1. Check condition.
Replace either or both components if cracks or deterioration are evident Chapter 4. Make sure that the plug cap fits snugly over the plug end. Check the unit, referring to Chapter 4 for details. Check the unit s , referring to Chapter 4 for details.
Check the coils, referring to Chapter 4. This is usually caused by water, corrosion, damage or excessive wear. The switches can be disassembled and cleaned with electrical contact cleaner.
If cleaning does not help, replace the switches Chapter 8 ,. Make sure that all wiring connections are clean, dry and tight. Look for chafed and broken wires Chapters 4 and 8. Remove the plug and inspect the threads. Reinstall and tighten to the specified torque Chapter 1.
If a cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket or head is damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts and bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct sequence Chapter 2. This means that the valve is not closing completely and compression pressure is leaking past the valve. Check and adjust the valve clearances Chapter 1.
Excessive wear will cause compression pressure to leak past the rings. This is usually accompanied by worn rings as well. A top end overhaul is necessary. Broken or sticking piston rings usually indicate a lubrication or carburetion problem that causes excess carbon deposits or seizures to form on the pistons and rings.
Top end overhaul is necessary Chapter 2. This is caused by excessive wear of the piston ring lands. Piston replacement is necessary Chapter 2. If one of the heads is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on a piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. Retorquing the head is not always sufficient to restore the seal, so gasket replacement is necessary Chapter 2.
This is caused by overheating or improperly tightened head nuts and bolts. Machine shop resurfacing or head replacement is necessary Chapter 2. Caused by component failure or wear; the spring s must be replaced Chapter 2.
This is caused by a bent valve from over-revving or improper valve adjustment , burned valve or seat improper carburetion or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat from carburetion or lubrication problems. Make sure the choke lever XV or choke cable all others is getting a full stroke and staying in the out position. See Chapter 4. See Chapter 3.
The fuel can be contaminated with either dirt or water, or can change chemically if the machine is allowed to sit for several months or more. Drain the tank and float bowls Chapter 3. Check for loose carburetor-to-intake joint connections, loose or missing vacuum gauge access port cap or hose, or loose carburetor top Chapter 3. Turn throttle stop screw until the engine idles at the specified rpm Chapter 1.
See Chapter 1. Adjust carburetors with vacuum gauge or manometer set as described in Chapter 1. Service or replace air filter element Chapter 1. Refer to Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance.
Refer to Chapters. Wrong type, heat range or cap configuration. Check and install correct plugs listed in Chapter 1. A cold plug or one with a recessed firing electrode will not operate at low speeds without fouling. Remove and overhaul the carburetors Chapter 3.
Remove carburetor and blow out all passages Chapter 3. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair defective parts. Adjust the floats Chapter 3. Make sure that the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. Check for cracks, breaks, tears or loose clamps or bolts. Repair or replace the rubber boots. If the cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time.
If a head is allowed to become loose, or if excessive carbon build-up on the piston crown and combustion chamber causes extremely high compression, the head gasket may leak. This is caused by a bent valve from over-revving or improper valve adjustment , burned valve or seat improper carburetion or an accumulation of carbon deposits on the seat from carburetion, lubrication problems. Overhaul the carburetors Chapter 3. The pickup coil s or the igniter may be defective. If so, they must be replaced with new ones, as they can't be repaired.
Adjust them with a vacuum gauge set or manometer Chapter 1. Using a heavier oil than that recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine.
Usually caused by debris which has entered the brake piston sealing boot, or from a warped disc or bent axle. Repair as necessary Chapter 6.
Clean or replace filter Chapter 1. See Chapter 1 for spark plug maintenance. See Chapters. Dirt, water or other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area, and the jets and carburetor orifices Chapter 3.
The standard jetting is for sea level atmospheric pressure and oxygen content. Refer to Chapter 3 for inspection and part replacement procedures. Remove and overhaul carburetors Chapter 3. Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps, and replace or repair defective parts.
Adjust the float s Chapter 3. Make sure the air vent passage in the filler cap is open. Repair or replace the rubber boots Chapter 3. Remove the tap and clean it Chapter 1. If a cylinder head is suspected of being loose, then there's a chance that the gasket and head are damaged if the problem has persisted for any length of time. The head nuts and bolts should be tightened to the proper torque in the correct Sequence Chapter 2.
A top end overhaul is necessary Chapter 2. Piston replacement is. This is caused by a bent valve from over-revving or improper valve adjustment , burned valve or seat. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up.
Otherwise, the cylinder head will have to be removed and decarbonized Chapter 2. Old or improper grades of fuel can cause detonation. This causes the piston to rattle, thus the knocking or pinging sound.
Drain old fuel and always use the recommended fuel grade. Uncontrolled detonation indicates the plug heat range is too hot. The plug in effect becomes a glow plug, raising cylinder temperatures. Install the proper heat range plug Chapter 1.
This will cause the cylinder to run hot, which leads to detonation. Clogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance. Adjust the cable slack Chapter 1. May be caused by a cable that is improperly adjusted or loose or worn clutch components.
Refer to Chapter 2 for cable replacement and clutch overhaul procedures. Using a heavier oil than the one recommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system and cause drag on the engine. Repair as necessary. Check and add oil Chapter 1. If you're not sure what type of oil is in the engine, drain it and fill with the correct type Chapter 1. Check and tighten or replace as necessary Chapter 3. Check and adjust if necessary Chapter 3. Replace pump or clean passages as necessary.
Remove and check for foreign material see Chapter 2. Use of a fuel additive. Otherwise, the cylinder heads will have to be removed and decarbonized Chapter 2. Replace cam, bushing or cylinder head. Abnormal wear could be caused by oil starvation at high rpm from low oil level or improper viscosity or type of oil Chapter 1.
Same problems as paragraph 3. Modification to exhaust system. Most aftermarket exhaust systems cause the engine to run leaner, which make them run hotter. When installing an accessory exhaust system, always rejet the carburetors. Dirt, water and other contaminants can clog the main jets. Clean the fuel tap filter, the float bowl area and the jets and carburetor orifices Chapter 3.
Look for cracks, holes or loose clamps and replace or repair. Use of a fuel additive that will dissolve the adhesive bonding the carbon particles to the piston crown and chamber is the easiest way to remove the build-up. Can be caused by damaged, loose or worn clutch oonents. Refer to Chapter 2 for overhaul procedures. Engine oil level too high.
The addition of too much oil will cause pressurization of the crankcase and inefficient engine operation. Using a heavier oil than the one r ecommended in Chapter 1 can damage the oil pump or lubrication system as well as cause drag on the engine.
Friction caused by intermittent lack of lubrication or from oil that is overworked can cause overheating. The oil provides a definite cooling function in the engine. Check the oil level Chapter 1.
Oil is rated not only according to viscosity but also according to type. Some oils are not rated high enough for use in this engine. Check the Specifications section and change to the correct oil Chapter 1. Excessive wear causing drop in oil. Overhaul the clutch assembly Chapter 2. Old or heat-damaged spring s from slipping clutch should be replaced with new ones Chapter 2. Replace any defective parts Chapter 2. This causes improper engagement of the plates.
Replace the damaged or worn parts Chapter 2. Clutch cable improperly adjusted see Chapter 1. This will cause clutch drag, which in turn will cause the machine to creep. Check and replace the spring s Chapter 2. Old, thin, worn out oil will not provide proper lubrication for the discs, causing the clutch to drag. Replace the oil and filter Chapter 1. Using a thicker oil than recommended in Chapter 1 can cause the plates to stick together, putting a drag on the engine.
Change to the correct viscosity oil Chapter 1. Lack of lubrication, severe wear or damage can cause the housing to seize on the shaft. Overhaul of the clutch, and perhaps transmission, may be necessary to repair the damage Chapter 2. Worn or damaged release mechanism parts can stick and fail to apply force to the pressure plate. Causes housing and boss misalignment putting a drag on the engine.
Engagement adjustment continually varies. Often caused by dropping the machine or from lack of lubrication. Overhaul the transmission Chapter 2. Most often caused by a lack of lubrication or excessive wear in transmission bearings and bushings. Caused by lubrication failure or excessive wear.
Replace the cam and bearing Chapter 2. Splines stripped out of lever or shaft, caused by allowing the lever to get loose or from dropping the machine.
Replace necessary parts Chapter 2. Full engagement and rotary movement of shift drum results. Replace shaft assembly Chapter 2. Allows pawl to float, causing sporadic shift operation. Replace spring Chapter 2. The gears should be inspected and replaced.
No attempt should be made to service the worn parts. Old or improper fuel can cause detonation. This causes the pistons to rattle, thus the knocking or pinging sound. Drain the old fuel and always use the recommended grade fuel Chapter 1. Uncontrolled detonation indicates that the plug heat range is too hot.
This will cause the cylinders to run hot and lead to detonationrClogged jets or an air leak can cause this imbalance. Caused by improper assembly. Inspect and overhaul top end parts Chapter 2. Caused by over-revving, trying to start a badly flooded engine or from ingesting a foreign object into the combustion chamber.
Replace the damaged parts Chapter 2. Replace damaged parts Chapter 2. Overhaul the top end Chapter 2. Usually from lack of lubrication or overheating. Replace the pistons and bore the cylinders, as necessary Chapter 2. Caused by excessive wear or lack of lubrication. Replace worn parts. I do not post the download link because other sites were just linking to it and creating unneeded traffic on our server. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
If this website was helpful please consider donating to help keep this site here for future Virago owners. The images are garbled. I will reupload it. Let me know if you still have any problems. Thank you for providing these manuals, too, they are very helpful. Glad I could help. Overrunning clutch malfunction rollers or compression spring. Replace overrunning clutch. Pinion teeth worn out. Replace pinion. Pinion does not run in overrunning direction.
Poor sliding condition of spline teeth. Remove foreign materials, dirt or replace overrunning clutch or pinion shaft. Replace overrunning clutch and idler gear. Jackshaft assembly Improper jackshaft parts assembly Disassemble and assemble parts properly. Gear teeth on clutch shell Excessively worn teeth.
Replace clutch shell. Unopened contacts. Replace starting switch or starter relay. Poor return caused by sticky switch or relay contacts. Return spring worn. Replace spring. Coil layer shorted. Replace solenoid. Contact plate melted and stuck.
Remove starter motor. Disassemble drive housing assembly. Inspect for damage to armature gear or idler gear. Is damage present? Remove and disassemble starter jackshaft assembly. Is jackshaft properly assembled?
Assemble jackshaft properly. Replace damaged idler gear and armature. Replace starter clutch. Perform voltage drop tests between battery positive to starter battery terminal. Crank engine. Is voltage drop greater than 1. Perform voltage drop tests from battery positive to starter motor terminal.
Repair connection between battery and starter. Repair or replace solenoid contacts. Perform voltage drop tests between battery negative and starter studs or bolts. Clean ground connections. Perform starter motor current draw test on vehicle. Perform starter motor free running current draw bench test. Are test results within range? Remove spark plugs while in 5th gear. Rotate rear wheel. Replace or repair starter motor. Follow the 1.
The voltage drop test measures the difference in potential or the actual voltage dropped between the source and destination. Attach your red meter lead to the most positive part of the circuit, which in this case would be the positive post of the battery 5. Attach the black meter lead to the final destination or component in the circuit solenoid terminal from relay.
Activate the starter and observe the meter reading.
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